Friday, January 29, 2010

20/01/2010 Bus trip from hell!



Up early as we had to get to the other side of the island to get to our next port of call. Little did we know what a day this was going to be. Out of bed 7.30 pack up and get our dodgey breakfast before grabbing a taxi to the ferry. That was about 40 pesos. Grabbed the ferry tickets….. Ferry left around 9.00am about an hour to the next island. Off the ferry and on a Jeepney to the bus depot (40p) Got to the bus terminal and a bus was about to go but was not air-con made the call to jump on. I mean after all how bad could a bus ride on an old bus with no air-con be ??? It was only supposedly a 6 hour bus trip. Well whoever made up that time did not make allowance for the bus stopping every 100 metres to pick people up or let them off. That I could probably put up with until the bus filled up and I mean filled up. We ended up sitting together which was ok until the bus conductor came up and said the seats were for 3 people and they squeezed someone in next to us. Yep they make the seats for 3 Filipinos who weigh 50 kilo’s. Of course the road was not actually too bad in spots but most of they way they were doing road works and they don’t have “stop and go” its first in best dressed so if there is 6 km’s of traffic coming the other way they don’t stop, so you have to wait, not really a great option when no air-con and bus jammed with smelly people and chickens. We were pretty much brown from the dust coming in the windows. We finally chugged into Dumaguette after 6.30pm and discovered the ferry did not go until 7.40. great !!! We got the security guys to mind our bags and went into town looking for food. Of course we turned right instead of left and missed all the real food. So it was mini bananas and bread rolls. We had a quick talk to a couple of Aussie guys at a Bar but it was too late to order food. We had to get the bike back to the port to catch our ferry. Bumpy ride in the dark on the ferry not my favorite thing to do. We finally got to the island just before 9.00pm. The Aussie guys told us the Tricycle taxis were gonna rip us off as there was no other option this late a night. Well we had to get to our resort so we resigned ourselves to being screwed over.


As we were walking up the wharf we could not believe our eyes a Jeepney with the name of the place we were staying!!! Had they sent it to pick us up??? No he just happened to be there to pick some supplies up off another ferry. About time something went our way after a hell trip that took around 13 hrs. Finally at the resort, the room looked good, clean and comfy beds we grabbed a beer and hit the pool. We were stuffed. Few beers and a chat to the owner and his mate and off to bed for some serious rest.


Coral Cay Resort, Solangon, Siquijor Island (The Visayas) Philippines

19/01/2010 Hidden treasures of Iloilo


Up at 7.30am as the staff was knocking on our door for our free breakfast. We got the supposed American breakfast which was an egg, sort of toast, something like a piece of devon, a hotdog sausage no bun and coffee !!! Anyway it was included in the 450 peso price so better than nothing, I think Tracey thought nothing may have been better,


We sent a text to our new friend Alvin and waited for him to arrive. As promised he turned up round 9.30a.m full of energy and a big smile. We hit the road for a bit of a local walking tour. He pointed out the local mall where everybody actually shopped ‘cause it was cheap. They had a complete floor of mobile phones and mobile phone repair shops. They seemed to be selling Nokia phones really cheaply but Alvin pointed out they were actually rip offs !! They looked like the real deal and I was tempted but I did not buy any.




We headed on our way and jumped on the local Jeepneys. These one were the same price as Manila which was pretty much 7 pesos for anywhere on the Jeepney's route. Alvin knew where to hop on and get the connecting Jeepney so we covered a lot of territory for bugger all. He took us down to the port to meet his dad who worked down there and tried to see if his dad could get us some free ferry tickets for the next day, but he couldn't but he gave us his card and said if we had any trouble at any of the ferry ports let him know. He was a nice guy like his son. After that we jumped on the Jeepneys and headed down to the beach area for seafood. We went to Alvin's favorite place that he liked to go. I think it was about 15k’s and it took us 2 Jeepney rides so it cost all 3 of us just over a dollar for the trip down there! It was called Stanleys in Villya. We ordered a pile of food including 2 crabs, plate of prawns, fish, calamari, a dozen skewer things, fish soup, a big pile of rice, drinks and what I thought was half a dozen fresh oysters. The oysters turn up in this basket piled up high and I said they had made a mistake but no that’s how they sell them by the basket full. Tracey pigged out on the crab until it attacked her and cut her finger. Never mind a quick bandage and she was back in action. Man we had that much food I could not eat it all. Well expecting a huge bill we were shocked when it came to a grand total of about $15 aussie. You do have to keep in mind this is not a 5 star eating place as it has dirt floor, mostly made out of bamboo and well the toilets you sort of get used to. And you probably don’t want to go into the kitchen!!! But the food is divine! Anyway we left there and headed to one of Alvin's friends new bar and restaurant. It was called “Stuffyerface” in Paseo de archangelus. It was a 2 story place and we had a few beers. Still searching for the legendary Happy Horse!!! Whats the legend you may well ask. Well I had taken to drinking Red Horse beer which they advertise as being extra strong but they don’t put the alcohol content on the bottle, but I bought a can once and it was on the can as 6.9% which is a pretty big kick for a beer anyway. When Alvin saw I was drinking this he said I need to find one with the horse logo that had a big cheesy grin instead of its more normal look and the writing on the back of the bottle is in a different colour. The story goes that 1 in 24 are supposedly the Happy Horse and if you get one of these it has 2 or 3 times the alcohol of the normal Red Horse!!! Sounds like an urban legend as I have not found any yet, but Alvin swore that it was true. It looks like it’s a tough job but I will just have to keep trying!! After a couple of normal horse beers at the bar we went over the road to check out the SM Mall. Apparently the huge mall originally used to be a small shoe market on the side of the road, hence its name. (the old shoe seller is now a multi millionaire) . We had a donut and a basic coffee, Trace bought 3 books as she was excited as they were heaps cheaper than home. (Interestingly I have taken to reading her left over books, pretty good for me as I had previously read 3 books in the last 15 years)


We then grabbed a taxi back to our Pension house for a nanny nap as Alvin wanted to take us to the MO2 Ice bar which was the hot place to go and he played there.





Travel tip: taxis in the Philippines are cheap if they use their meter. If you get in one insist they turn the meter on if they refuse jump out and get another one. Our trip from the mall to the motel was probably 7 or 8k’s and we dropped Alvin off on the way and the fare was 50 pesos about $1.25 !!!! After a sort of nanny nap we went to our accommodations restaurant for some grub for our night out. Food was good and cheap plus as I mentioned the atmosphere was really cool. Alvin swung by around 9.30 and off we went. All places have a gun ban!!! Darn you are not allowed to take your gun anywhere anymore!!! Go figure!! They have security everywhere but we just get waved through. As Alvin said its good to be with white people sometimes. Ordered some Red Horse darn no luck they weren’t happy. The band was awesome! These guys can play all sorts of music and play it really well. They let some guy from America jam with one of their guitars and he played hard and broke a string. They didn’t mind. Alvin got up and rocked the house, then he called Trace up and she sang I Will Survive with the band and back up singers it was great the crowd was clapping and taking her photo it was awesome and you could tell she loved it. We had a few more drinks danced to the band and then it was disco time. Me being a shade older and my ears hurting we went across the road for a quiet drink. I actually had a Jack and Coke!! First whiskey since leaving Australia. Finished our drinks and said our goodbyes. Back to our room for sleepy time.


Family Pension, Iloilo, Panay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

18/01/2010 A surprising find!!

Headed off to catch the boat to Caticlan and ran into Mike and Catherine from Miami, Florida. Grahame had met them on Gili Trawangan when they were looking for accommodation there – what a small world. They are working for the US Govt in Manila doing aid work for a few months and travelling in between. Check out their blog! Then it was onto the bus for a 6 hour trip to Iloilo in Southern Panay.


Well we bumped our way in the air conditioned bus (please note I said air conditioned) trip was not so bad as they had a tv on board and I got more free enetertainment than we have got on any of our cheapo air fares. Bus was 312 pescos each about $15 for both of us. The dodgey chartered mini bus guys wanted something like 4,000 each !! Anyway I managed to watch Alien 3 and 4 plus Predator. Not a bad way to spend a bus trip.




We got into Iloilo after dark which around these parts is a lot earlier than back home. Its dark here by 6 or 6.30 pm. Tricycle guys tried to scam 150 pesos for the trip to the motel but we got a taxi for the same price. The taxi driver spoke English really well and it was a pity it was dark as he was giving us the guided tour on the way. We got to the Family Pension House (and no they don’t just cater to old backpackers). We checked out our 450 pesco room about $12 with a dodgey breakfast, no hot water and single beds!! But it looked reasonably clean so we showered up and discovered they had this really neat restaurant that was decorated with cool paintings and short tables and you sat on the floor on pillows. Way Cool!!! We had a drink there and decided to go for a walk as we had been in the bus all day. After wandering for half an hour we decided to go back as we could not find anything better than the Pension house restaurant. We ordered some pretty good food and drank some beer. They had a small band come in and they had open mic so Tracey got to sing with them. When the band was on a break I was coming back from the toilet and I got talking to the guys in the band. After the band finished playing one of the guys came up and started talking to us. His name was Alvin and a really nice guy as well as a talented singer and musician. He offered to give us the guided tour the next day as it was his day off.. We did not really plan staying 2 days in Iloilo but he was such a nice young guy we decided to take him up on his offer. We hit the hay about 1.30am.

Family Pension Iloilo, Panay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

17/01/2010 Disapponted Hawkers - yet again


Our last day here and it is still rainy so we are obviously not going to end up on the boat ride that all the hawkers are trying to sell us! Instead we went for another long walk down the southern end of the beach to look at a resort –the Treehouse - which was for sale. It was nice but overpriced. Decided to head back to Calypso that afternoon for tea and drinks where we met up with Renae and Caterina – a Czech couple travelling through South-East Asia for a few months. Also managed to get Jason and Nikki on Skype which was fantastic.


Alice in Wonderland, Boracay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

16/01/2010 Filippino Festival

Headed over to the mainland and took a bus to Kalibo to check out the ‘Kalibo Sto.Nino Ati-Atihan’ Festival. This happens every January and all of the tribes turn up in their traditional dress with fantastic floats and parade in the streets of Kalibo. These festivals happen all over the Philippines at different times but this is supposedly one of the biggest. Unfortunately the weather was miserable but we still managed to dance along with them for most of the day and in between we found a dry spot in the centre of the town square for warm coffee and sandwiches. It was here that we met Noel Cababo, a journalist for Manila and had a great time just chatting with him about his work, the festival and his perspective on many Philippine issues. That evening we came back and had a good meal in a restaurant called Christina’s. Some of us had eyes bigger than our bellies as the servings were huge and couldn’t be finished! We had to walk off the meal so we walked along the beach to the furthest point south and discovered a little natural cave/arch out into the ocean right at the end of the beach. We also discovered that this part of the beach was a lot quieter than where we were staying.

15/01/2010 Windy Wonderland

Still windy and cool so we are just sitting having a late, late breakfast and coffee in the Calypso Lounge…and there we stayed for the rest of the day – using their free wi-fi, drinking cheap cocktails and eating great food. A very lazy day.

Alice in Wonderland, Boracay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

14/01/2010 Flying Surfers!

Wandered to the East Coast of the Island to check out what all the fuss was about and found kite-surfing heaven – these guys fly across the ocean, some over 10 metres in the air!! It is so windy over there that the palm trees grow sideways into the wind to stop from falling over. Walked back through the bush track and ended up walking through the local village where once again we were starkly reminded of just how much poverty is around us even in this island paradise. Bought some yummy bread and bananas from the local market (less than 25c) and went back for a swim and sunbake in our pool. That night I had a fantastic massage – a combination of Swedish, Thai and Remedial and a few great cocktails while Grahame met up with Andrew (check out his blog – he is a great photographer) at the Juice Bar and got plastered on the local xtra alcoholic beer – Red Horse. Then we met up for an amazing Thai meal and another couple of drinks on the way home when we stopped off to check out the local Metallica-type lookalike coverband.

Alice in Wonderland, Boracay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

13/01/2010 White Beach

Walked the 4km length of stunning White Beach from South to North in the stinking hot middle of the day -with a few dips in the crystal clear water on the way. There is no shade on this beach so we were both rather burnt by the end and glad to stop for a beer and a dip in one of the resort pools before heading back south. Caught a tricycle back along the main road and then went for a nap in the hammock before tea. Both of us fell asleep so we didn’t end up going out to tea until around 10pm. Luckily this is Asia and not Wagga and you can still get food at any hour! Went to ‘Shakey’s’ for a great pizza and then wandered back along the beach to check out the music scene. After nearly falling asleep on the sand listening to a band with the locals we called it a night around midnight!

Alice in Wonderland, Boracay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

12/01/2010 WWII Planes?

Took a flight from Manila to Boracay in a very old and dilapidated prop plane – I had to hold Grahame’s hand so he didn’t jump straight back off! (Considering the plane smelt of petrol fumes and the pilot fixed one of the cockpit windows with a bit of cardboard) We had a surprisingly smooth flight and luckily he didn’t hear about all the accidents at this 750m runway until after we landed. However the shipping record is apparently much worse! We were accosted by the most efficient tourist service we have met in the Philippines (after very disappointing experiences in Manila and at the airport). They not only took us on our free bus (courtesy of Sea Air – highly recommended service) but onto the boat and tricycle to a reasonably priced hotel in Boracay (we hadn’t booked in advance). Just had a look around that afternoon, had a swim in our pool and went back out to sample a few happy hour cocktails along the restaurant strip. Made a mistake and attended one of the many buffets on the strip for tea – it was pretty awful and we won’t be doing that again!

Alice in Wonderland, Boracay Island (The Visayas) Philippines

11/01/2010 Philippino History

Moved to a new hostel as Friendly’s was a bit too dirty for our liking and found a perfectly clean hostel with it’s own bathroom up the road for only a few extra pesos. It seems that a recommendation by Lonely Planet means that a place goes quickly downhill, drops their service and hikes their prices!

Went to the Intramuros today – a walled city built by the Spanish that contains Fort Santiago, Casa Manila and the church and monastery of San Augustin. The church turned out to be an amazing museum in itself and we spent a few hours wandering around and learning about the history of the spice traders and the Spanish monks-come-explorers.


The fort was also interesting and an oasis of peace and quiet after the business of Manila. That night we treated ourselves to some fantastic tapas in a Spanish restaurant – Casa Armas.

1632 Hostel – Manila Philippines